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Asked about battery drainage due to A/C in 97 ford probe twice..?
Battery = Good
Bat size- 650CCA
Avail Amps - 744CCA
% Rated Capacity - 114%
Battery Temp - 70 F
Initial Volts - 12.70
Final Volts - 12.48
Impedance 4.29
Starter Passed
Cranking Volts Normal
Cranking Voltage
Initial - 12.48
Average - 11.68
Minimum - 11.23
Alternator - Passed
Idle results
Voltage 14.05
Ripple P-P -93
Currant - 47
Ripple P-P - 23
High RPM Results
Voltage 13.48
Ripple P-P - 23
Current - 54
Ripple P-P - 18
WTF
I give up I am goign to just wait until it dies... either way it will cost the same to fix. Most likely its a short or the meter is reeding incorrectly
Unless there are any other ideas
well the car is kida crappy so your best bet is to save your $$ and run it into the ground. when it quits hopfully you will have saved enough for a new car, or a downpayment for one
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Trevor Simpson reeded Sport Goped @ 40 MPH on the radar gun
Asked about battery drainage due to A/C in 97 ford probe twice..?
Battery = Good
Bat size- 650CCA
Avail Amps - 744CCA
% Rated Capacity - 114%
Battery Temp - 70 F
Initial Volts - 12.70
Final Volts - 12.48
Impedance 4.29
Starter Passed
Cranking Volts Normal
Cranking Voltage
Initial - 12.48
Average - 11.68
Minimum - 11.23
Alternator - Passed
Idle results
Voltage 14.05
Ripple P-P -93
Currant - 47
Ripple P-P - 23
High RPM Results
Voltage 13.48
Ripple P-P - 23
Current - 54
Ripple P-P - 18
WTF
I give up I am goign to just wait until it dies... either way it will cost the same to fix. Most likely its a short or the meter is reeding incorrectly
Unless there are any other ideas
You didn't say when it killed the battery:
What makes you so sure the a/c is what is killing the vehicle? After the key is turned off all electrical power is supposed to die to the a/c system.
You've got a draw, perform a draw test. Hook a amp meter in series (that is between) the negative cable and negative battery post.. After 1 hour the reading should be .005 or less on a digital multimeter .. anything higher requires removal of the fuses one by one to see where the draw is. when the draw goes below what I said, that circuit is the one with the problem.
The wiring on them things were so-so to start with but if you have an aftermarket amp or the factory amp, they are known for drawing down a battery.. also any dome, hood, glove box or a high draw item in the cigar lighter.
But also check that alternator and make sure it's rocking with proper amperage which is 80-90 amps peak.
I went and found your other post.. the a/c is drawing from the battery when a/c is on and car running .. with headlights on at idle that will happen on all cars if blower is on high and a/c kicking.. alternators produce best above 1500 rpm so something drawn at idle should charge it while driving.... and you can name a car and it will do it unless it was built with an oversized alternator (like Police cars for example)
You talked about in another about the belts squealing.. well guess what, loss of grip means alternator ain't charging full force and can cause same problems.
Real worried, stop messing with the zone and go to a real alternator shop who can test it for you






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